The First Time I Didn’t Ask What Was Coming Next
I used to be a student of the menu. Whether it was a leather bound tome or a single sheet of paper, my mind would race ahead, charting the course of the meal. I would anticipate the arrival of each…
Category Behind the Counter
The craft perspective: technique, philosophy, the chef’s world, ingredient stories
No One Rushed, Even When the Room Was Full
The counter was completely occupied, a seamless line of shoulders from one end of the polished wood to the other. In most restaurants, a full house translates to a subtle escalation of energy. You feel it in the brisk pace…